South West Bikers | Motorcycle Forum

OK, so appears the mighty trumpet 675 had decided to throw it's toys out in the form of a buggered rectifier. Before I go straight out and re mortgage the house for a genuine Triumph part or buy a rubbish pattern part, just wondered what folks experiences or opinions are about the different brands out there. My train of thought seems to be towards a brand called MOSFET just now.

Thoughts and ideas please...

Might have one from my 955. Will look tomorrow. Any good ?????

Yes.. MOSFET.
It's not a brand but a type of switch.

Standard ones (older types) use Thyristors as the switches within them, and in a shunt configuration (shorting the stator when the voltage gets too high).
Some better ones use MOSFET's as a switch rather than using Thyristors.
Better ones use MOSFET's in a series configuration (breaking or opening the circiut from the stator when the voltage gets too high).
The newest (and maybe best) use MOSFET's for Phase Control which gives better power control rather than just chopping it as with all previous types.

This is huge topic, initially it was feared that damage to be caused if using a Series where previously a Shunt type was used.
However.. over the years people have be retro-fitting them to many brands of bike and experiencing no issues.
The upside is MOEFET's seem to be more reliable, and the series versions give a cooler running stator.

I've been watching this progress for several years (on many forums) and I'm now at the point that if the R/R on any of my bikes failed I'd replace it with a MOSFET Series type R/R.

The choice is either to buy a generic one power rated high enough for your bike (normally made by shindengen) or to seek one used from another bike that came with one as standard. I believe from a certain year onwards the CBR600R's had MOSFET R/R, so people were buying those and changing the plugs on thier bike to fit it.

Exactly what sayeth he of the jug inspection persuasion, get a Shindengen MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier and change the connectors. There's a heap of info' out there regarding this - just be very aware of the Chineseium knock-offs, there's plenty of them too.

Moto electrical are a reputable UK supplier who I highly recommend. Give them a call:-
https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/produc ... 008/675cc/

Looking like MOSFET is the way to go. And that shendigham or what you said...
Thank you, good to hear others opinions.
Larry, do you have a part number of your spare one?? Might be worth me checking if it's compatible on a newer bike.

Phone Motoelectrical, they are the experts:-
01953 603420

Red5 wrote: ↑Apr 22nd, '22, 09:36Larry, do you have a part number of your spare one?? Might be worth me checking if it's compatible on a newer bike.

I can't find a part no. but I have virtually the whole bike in bits. Engine still in frame, swing arm (DS) seperate. Both wheels forks etc. Complete loom, headlights, bits of fairing ......

Also available a lovely and unique seat, several handle bars, oil and main radiators+ + +

Don't forget, if your rectifier decide to do one, then worth checking your battery and genny output to make sure they aren't damaged too. In the past i've found that when one of the three dies then the other two aren't far behind.

billinom8s wrote: ↑Apr 22nd, '22, 23:29 Don't forget, if your rectifier decide to do one, then worth checking your battery and genny output to make sure they aren't damaged too. In the past i've found that when one of the three dies then the other two aren't far behind.

Double agree with that check your stator output deffo

Well, after some testing and checking and comparing and swapping between the track and road Daytonas, it's only the blimmin ECU. Hmm.
Oh well, ebay special OE Triumph enroute, hopefully be good.

or get it flashed by hilltop racinng

Hey nick I know it may be stating the obvious,

But be careful swapping the ecu as maybe coded to the key set for the imobilizer also.