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brake discs going rusty???
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 16:20
by tony
anyone got any suggestions of what brakes discs to replace my current ones with
the ones on that CBr of mine start going rusty if you just say "rain" too close to it
leave it out at work in the rain and they go brown and stain the front wheel like mad, fron wheel lokos brown after a couple of days
so what discs am I looking for that wont rust

Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 16:44
by Funky
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 17:21
by svr-ash
Cast discs do rust, you're not really going to avoid it. I had the ones funky just posted the link for and they took a long time to rust
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 17:24
by Mike Daytona600
Those ones funky put look the dogs.

Braking waves don't last long so I would avoid
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 17:35
by svr-ash
Mike Daytona600 wrote:Those ones funky put look the dogs.

Braking waves don't last long so I would avoid
The discs last just as long but the pads wear quicker

Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 19:36
by Webber
just becareful buying waveys! lots of stories ive heard, check out the link:
http://www.visordown.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302356

Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 21:10
by Jay
Ditto, its best to stick with the stanard discs IMO
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 21:35
by CvPiper
OE will be best quality, and coated to protect, just clean the face when installing, not the whole disk as its there to stop corrosion.
Also, a round disk is much easier to clean the edges than the fancy wavey ones.
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 22:45
by Mike Daytona600
I had EBC round discs on my first zx6 when i bought it and found them to be shit hot. But I had gone from a GPZ500S. Anyway I'd buy them if I needed new discs.
Posted: Jan 21st, '07, 22:55
by svr-ash
I found EBC prolite to be the worst for rust but best for braking, the waveys i got now seem to be as good as the sunlites i had on the GSXR wheel when i brought it and only cost me £30 so i aint complaining

Posted: Jan 22nd, '07, 13:45
by graham22
It sounds like you could already have EBC Pro-lites, I had a set on my 'blade and, like Ash, I used to find they rusted, sometimes the sintered metal pads would'stick' slightly if the bike had been parked wet.
With the EBC pads, they were great in the dry but not so immediate in the wet.
Most after market discs are cast so will rust - is it really worth the hassle in changing good discs?
Posted: Jan 22nd, '07, 19:54
by tony
now thats interesting, as I did notice that with it parked outside for the day either wash it, or maybe it rains, go to move it and it clunks, pads were stuck!!
might try some WD40

Posted: Jan 22nd, '07, 20:10
by Blimey
Mate most worn discs will rust a tad when left out in the rain. New ones don't seem to rust so quickly but over time they will.
I got EBC Pro-lites on my Track CBR and they rust terribly.
Not sure whats on the RR but when i ride to work in the rain 12 hours later when i get back on it the pads have stuck to the dics and rust starting to show already.
Let us know if you manage to find a solution.
Instead of lubing the discs with WD40 why not try grease which i here is as good.
I hope you were joking about the WD40 (i can see a compensation claim coming

)
Posted: Jan 22nd, '07, 21:24
by tony
no probs, I remember a case on one of the performance VW forums, guy with a mentally tuned golf, mega bucks turbochraged motor etc, he joined and was asking questions about engine flushing, with all the info he had posted people assumed it was a hoax and just played with him, told him to fill the engine to the brim with boiling water and rev it to 5000rpm and hold it for 3 minutes to get the water well worked round the engine
week or so later pics on the site appeared, hole in block and rod and remains of piston hangin out LOL
Posted: Jan 27th, '07, 10:17
by Mike Daytona600
tony wrote:no probs, I remember a case on one of the performance VW forums, guy with a mentally tuned golf, mega bucks turbochraged motor etc, he joined and was asking questions about engine flushing, with all the info he had posted people assumed it was a hoax and just played with him, told him to fill the engine to the brim with boiling water and rev it to 5000rpm and hold it for 3 minutes to get the water well worked round the engine
week or so later pics on the site appeared, hole in block and rod and remains of piston hangin out LOL
