NC30 Wheel Bearings

Little Loris · Post by **Little Loris** » Sep 25th, '06, 17:27

I'm doing my first maintenance job on the NC30 and managed to get both the wheels off

(thanks to Haines) for powder coating. Also the wheel bearings were fairly easy to get out and word round the campfire is that once they're out you should replace them.

They look in pretty good condition, however I haven't taken the rubber seals off to view the bearings inside.

I hope this isn't a stupid question, but how do you know when the bearings need replacing? They seem to be moving freely enough.

What is everyone's general view on bearing replacement and how often should you replace them?

andy198712 · Post by **andy198712** » Sep 25th, '06, 17:38

when there worn, with the wheel on the bike and off the ground, stand facing it side on, and see it has any movement in it, other then round and round obcourse, if theres any play, replace them

to be honest your better off replacing them while there out as it saves a job later, dont buy them from a bike shop though, you can get then cheaper from a beaing shop.

i used to have a NC30 and though there beatuiful you need small hands for jobs like vavles and plugs

Post by **TLS-Moose** » Sep 25th, '06, 18:46

The caged ball bearings are designed to take a rotational force - when you wack seven bales of cr*p out of them sideways you are forcing them in a direction they were never intended to be loaded, that is why it is generally considered proper to replace them once removed.

Also, for an all-up cost of 20 - 30 quid, it's cheap insurance

Go see Derek & the guys at CMS, about as good value as you'll get locally

DynaMight · Post by **DynaMight** » Sep 25th, '06, 19:14

I was talking about this the otherday, although EXTREMELY dangerous when they go, it's just something you only usually replace when they actually go! rather than every x miles/years etc

When I had my wheel bearings done I just got a new set from CMS. Didnt cost much either.

age · Post by **age** » Sep 25th, '06, 21:19

Replace them as you will prob get 4 for around £20.

CMS is the place to go.

Age

Little Loris · Post by **Little Loris** » Sep 27th, '06, 15:53

TLS-Moose wrote:The caged ball bearings are designed to take a rotational force - when you wack seven bales of cr*p out of them sideways you are forcing them in a direction they were never intended to be loaded, that is why it is generally considered proper to replace them once removed.

Also, for an all-up cost of 20 - 30 quid, it's cheap insurance

Go see Derek & the guys at CMS, about as good value as you'll get locally

Thanks for the info guys. They came out without much hammering so they didn't look damaged as such. Also, they were moving freely. The rubber seals weren't even damaged.

I took them into CMS and the guy had a play round with them. He said they'd be ok to put back in so I didn't bother purchasing another pair. Do you still think I should replace them? I know what you're saying about hammering seven bails out of them and it could damage them without visually seeing anything.

andy198712 · Post by **andy198712** » Sep 27th, '06, 16:07

it will have increased the wear on them, the reason we say replace them, is just because were lazy and dont want to take the wheel off again and bother to take them out lol

also its a bit of insurance as some one said,

to be on the safe side replace them, then also you wont have to bother with them for a long time,

andrew · Post by **andrew** » Sep 28th, '06, 09:04

Little Loris wrote:
Thanks for the info guys. They came out without much hammering so they didn't look damaged as such. Also, they were moving freely. The rubber seals weren't even damaged.

I took them into CMS and the guy had a play round with them. He said they'd be ok to put back in so I didn't bother purchasing another pair. Do you still think I should replace them? I know what you're saying about hammering seven bails out of them and it could damage them without visually seeing anything.

They probably would be ok but they aren't expensive so why take the risk.

By the way I wouldn't go to any bike shop, if you go to an engineering / bearings shop they will be about Half Price. I use Premier Power Products in Plymouth (just round the corner from the Golden Hind pub) and they are so much cheaper I now have an account with them.

Post by **TLS-Moose** » Sep 28th, '06, 13:12

andrew wrote:By the way I wouldn't go to any bike shop, if you go to an engineering / bearings shop they will be about Half Price.

Sorry, but I disagree - to a point ......

They will be significantly cheaper ONLY compared to going an ordering a suzuki/honda/etc., genuine part, but not compared to the likes of CMS or even M&P/Busters, etc., ......... AND they will only be cheaper if you have (an account/know them/they're nice) and are thus able to give you discount off the trade price

ooh, and also forgot above that at that level, you are only gonna be arguing over a few pennies, rather than several quid at a main dealer

chris_1127 · Post by **chris_1127** » Sep 28th, '06, 13:41

i've always used Exeter Bearing Centre on Grace Road for any bearings I need - take the old one in or write down the number on the side of it. Theyve always had what I needed on the shelf, and are helpful and cheap too - taper rollers about 22 quid and wheel bearings about £4 each. Never used CMS for bearings so don't know what their prices are like though.

personally if you have got the bearing out and its no more than a tenner to replace, stick a new one in just in case

andrew · Post by **andrew** » Oct 4th, '06, 18:04

TLS-Moose wrote: Sorry, but I disagree - to a point ......

They will be significantly cheaper ONLY compared to going an ordering a suzuki/honda/etc., genuine part, but not compared to the likes of CMS or even M&P/Busters, etc., ......... AND they will only be cheaper if you have (an account/know them/they're nice) and are thus able to give you discount off the trade price

ooh, and also forgot above that at that level, you are only gonna be arguing over a few pennies, rather than several quid at a main dealer

Sorry but you are wrong.

I was quoted approx £7 for wheel bearings for Cinderellas sons RS50. That price was for pattern bearings at CMS. I then went to the bearing shop - my first ever visit at that time - and they only wanted £3.50 for pattern bearings. Same story with the steering head bearings.

The account only got set up for me because on the 3rd visit the guy behind the counter mentioned he had a Triumph Tiger and had been quoted some ridiculous amount for having rear brake pads fitted so i offered to do it for him (and checked his front pads) so in return he set me up an account

baz-R · Post by **baz-R** » Oct 4th, '06, 19:46

chris_1127 wrote:i've always used Exeter Bearing Centre on Grace Road for any bearings I need - take the old one in or write down the number on the side of it. Theyve always had what I needed on the shelf, and are helpful and cheap too - taper rollers about 22 quid and wheel bearings about £4 each. Never used CMS for bearings so don't know what their prices are like though.

personally if you have got the bearing out and its no more than a tenner to replace, stick a new one in just in case

i second that infact go to any bearing dealer should be able to get any std metric bearing for a few quid no.s should start with a 6 eg(deep grove ball bearing eg. wheel bearings) 608,6002,6206,6302 etc and for thoes tricky jap manufacture bearings like in my yams alternator mesure the outter dia ,inner & with and mail me i should be able to tell you the no.

Little Loris · Post by **Little Loris** » Oct 6th, '06, 12:57

Ok, I'm lazy but I also love my bike and my legs so I think £8.50 each will save them both.

I would go to Plymouth but I'm a bit far away and I would only use the remaining savings on fuel.

Thanks for the info. I'll go to CMS and get replacements today.

By the way, new powder coated wheels look awesome! Hopefully get them back on this weekend and post some pics, even though I have no idea how