Electrical faults?

Tom · Post by **Tom** » Oct 4th, '06, 23:18

Hello again
Bike engine is rebuilt, and working, (I think!!!)
But I cant ride it, managed a total of 25 miles so far

Basically, when I ride it, its very rough and misfiring lots, and the idle turns itself up to 4,000, when I turn it down the bike cuts out. Now this sounds like fueling, but I assure you its not! (Although I very much doubt my fueling is very good!)
But the bike just dies, and is cutting out loads, and kept killing the battery (NEW!), so I changed the rectifier, and it started first time, and second, and third, so I thought Idle! Road it down the road, and it wouldnt start after I turned it off. Left it, and it started. Same happened again.
Road down the road with my mate, (with lights on) bike is running rough still. But then the lights start dimming and its misfiring loads more again. Then the bike cuts out. I havent started it again since, as to be honest it is annoying me as it is beyond me as to what is wrong.
Anyone got any ideas? What can I check?
List of stuff that came to my head.....it has new HT leads and coils, new spark plugs, new rectifier and new battery. So i mean I cant really think what it might be?
failing that, anyone know where I can take it? That isnt too expensive?
Cheeeeeeeers :thumbs:

chris_1127 · Post by **chris_1127** » Oct 5th, '06, 08:03

may be a silly question, but assume its a combined regulator/rectifier on an r6?

have you checked what voltage its putting out when its running at tickover, and when you rev it, just to make sure the new reg/rec is ok as well? Unlikely you'd get a duff one from new but you never know. any burning smells or wires getting really hot or anything?

electrical problems are a real tw@, good luck with it

Tom · Post by **Tom** » Oct 10th, '06, 16:13

Ok, so I tried both my regulators/rectifiers. and without it plugged in.
And all 3 goes it was the same settings.
Standard on tickover is about 11.2 volts, then when I rev the bike it goes to about 10.8 volts.
So bound to be my reg right?!
Hopefully! Fingers crossed it aint some gay wire, I hate finding that sort of problem!

speedy(delboy) · Post by **speedy(delboy)** » Oct 10th, '06, 16:41

Tom wrote:Hopefully! Fingers crossed it aint some gay wire

Didnt know wire's were gay or straight or even bi-sexual

Tom · Post by **Tom** » Oct 10th, '06, 16:47

All wires are GAY.
Unless they work, then there whatever they want to be!!!

Post by **TLS-Moose** » Oct 10th, '06, 23:36

Tom wrote:.......And all 3 goes it was the same settings.
Standard on tickover is about 11.2 volts, then when I rev the bike it goes to about 10.8 volts.
So bound to be my reg right?!

No !

It could be the alternator.
Disconnect the plug where the alternator output go's into the loom. Start the bike up (it should!) and measure across the three (?) wires in pairs - that'll be three tests - and you should get the same reading each time ... generally around 80v (? - at least it was on old air-cooled monsters like GPz and GSX 11's

) at this stage the output is not the end of the world - you're looking for all 3 phases to be the same. If there is any difference, you might have a phase out

Now set your meter to resistance checking with the little alarm/buzzer thing on, and with the electrics turned off check between each wire and an earth point once again, if the thing "pings" up, that's a dead phase

Please note, this is for those archaic old in-line 4's with the genny on the crank - those with "piggy-back" alternators may be different - i'm no expert.
There is a good genny re-wind place in Stoke Village, called Westcountry Windings

chris_1127 · Post by **chris_1127** » Oct 11th, '06, 08:04

what he said ;) generally if your reg/rec went it would overcook your system not undercharge it. the regulator bit limits the voltage output, the rectifier converts from AC to DC. i'd have expected the running voltage to be anywhere between 12-14.5v. Might explain why your battery was dying too if its not getting a proper charge

baz-R · Post by **baz-R** » Oct 11th, '06, 17:36

TLS-Moose wrote:
Tom wrote:.......And all 3 goes it was the same settings.
Standard on tickover is about 11.2 volts, then when I rev the bike it goes to about 10.8 volts.
So bound to be my reg right?!
No !

It could be the alternator.
Disconnect the plug where the alternator output go's into the loom. Start the bike up (it should!) and measure across the three (?) wires in pairs - that'll be three tests - and you should get the same reading each time ... generally around 80v (? - at least it was on old air-cooled monsters like GPz and GSX 11's ) at this stage the output is not the end of the world - you're looking for all 3 phases to be the same. If there is any difference, you might have a phase out
Now set your meter to resistance checking with the little alarm/buzzer thing on, and with the electrics turned off check between each wire and an earth point once again, if the thing "pings" up, that's a dead phase
Please note, this is for those archaic old in-line 4's with the genny on the crank - those with "piggy-back" alternators may be different - i'm no expert.
There is a good genny re-wind place in Stoke Village, called Westcountry Windings

80v sounds a bit high moose more like 25v ac between any 2 of the 3 wires from your stator winding(alternator) your meter my get more as theres no load
and as moose says none of the wires should be earthed from the ac side (befor reg/retifier) use the ohm setting. it should be infinity
it may have been damaged when you had the motor apart
ask a stupid question if you remove the alternator plug does the bike run ok you may have a short else where?
it is more than likly that it is something that has been disturbed in the repair/rebild prosess!

Tom · Post by **Tom** » Oct 11th, '06, 18:05

The bike runs the same with the alternator connected or disconnected.
I didnt touch that side of the engine, so I mean, well you just dunno do you, there was so much wrong with it when it broke!!!!
I tried getting a reading from the Alternator plug, with no success.
Will try again tomorrow! (I am crap with electrics!)

Post by **TLS-Moose** » Oct 11th, '06, 22:37

baz-R wrote: 80v sounds a bit high moose more like 25v ac between any 2 of the 3 wires from your stator winding(alternator) your meter my get more as theres no load
and as moose says none of the wires should be earthed from the ac side (befor reg/retifier) use the ohm setting. it should be infinity
it may have been damaged when you had the motor apart
ask a stupid question if you remove the alternator plug does the bike run ok you may have a short else where?
it is more than likly that it is something that has been disturbed in the repair/rebild prosess!

80v sounds about right to me

just in case, I checked my TL manual, and that states a no load voltage of at least 70v AC between any pair of the output wires with engine speed @ 5000rpm

dynomec · Post by **dynomec** » Oct 20th, '06, 09:21

I think you need to check the voltage and please check if the connections are ok

gixerdrew · Post by **gixerdrew** » Oct 20th, '06, 21:50

Tom wrote:Ok, so I tried both my regulators/rectifiers. and without it plugged in.
And all 3 goes it was the same settings.
Standard on tickover is about 11.2 volts, then when I rev the bike it goes to about 10.8 volts.

Don't want to state the obvious, but shouldn't the reading be higher than 11.2 if you're revving it, not lower? Has your wiring been mucked around with? (I only say this because my first big bike had been fixed by a so called bike dealer & they wired up the rectifier /alternator configuration all wrong - it was constantly draining the battery, but the actual components were pucca.)

I would get out wiring diagram from your manual and check. If its beyond you then take it to reputable bike dealer & pay.