Dyno Day!?

[Rsv4Col]

wasnt meaning you mate,meant that theres a good dyno there thats suitable for all people from cornwall or devon AND A MUCH BETTER RIDE TO IT THAN PLYMOUTH

Your not wrong there mate

[JimR]

I think Minehead is a bot far for us Cornish tbh, plymouth or exeter tops really!

[deej]

I think Minehead is a bot far for us Cornish tbh, plymouth or exeter tops really!

gah,i rode upto minehead from st a back in august,was a great run and some lovely roads. bude to barney is fast n flowing and then barney to minehead via porlock is lovely

came home via dunster and jamacia inn

[Maver-Nick]

bude to barney is fast n flowing and then barney to minehead via porlock is lovely ... home via dunster and jamacia inn

Sweet... Memories of Speedy's old summer rideouts...

[Banditmax]

I reckon Kenny (ace motorcycles bude) is good for people from cornwall, plymouth, barnstaple and exeter. All reasonable distances away and great roads to and from the place. If i was home i'd pop down and ask him about it but im not. But in the summer i'll see what interest there is then.

[fastbiker25]

did not realise there was a dyno in bude???

wow, what is there reputation, im asking because i intend getting a setup done on my new R1 and a ride to bude is better than a ride to GT's in plymouth!!???

[deej]

personally i'd got to bude,kenny knows his stuff and has a modern uptodate dynapro dyno rather than a 20yr old+ dyno they have at gt. its worth a trip up there,f you look on the zx10r forum theres a few alds from barney who recommend him over gts

[jam]

Dynojet is seen as the industry leader and also seen as the worldwide standard, All Dynojet dynos including the earlier models should now be using the same latest version of the Winpep7 software as used by the latest 250i models.
It is not the type or age of the dyno you should be concerned with but what software it is running, and who is operating it. The latest 250i models fitted with an eddy current brake allow a constant load to be applied to the bike which makes FI remapping easier and less time consuming in some situations, but remaps can be performed without the eddy current brake.
Before I bought my Dynojet I looked very closely at both the Dynapro and Fuchs packages, however as the Dynojet is a long established company with a proven track record which is recognised worldwide within the industry I bought a Dynojet.
The important thing to remember is that the dyno is a tool, and is only as good as the person operating it and interpreting the results. When having tuning/set up work done to your bike try to ensure that you use the same dyno every time, as that way you will get comparable evidence of any improvements made, All Dynojet dynos read within 1% of each other, ensuring reliable repeat results. A graph of a bike on a Dynojet dyno will show different figures to a run using the same bike on a Dynapro/Fuchs, as the Dynapro/Fuchs software is different to the Dynojet.
Dynapro make many claims on their website, some of which are not exactly complimentary about other manufacturers, whilst I do not intend to go into the ins and outs of what they are saying, it was one of the things that influenced my choice of dyno manufacturer, I don't like to have someone try to influence my decision by slating the other choices, rightly or wrongly it makes me rather suspicious of them.
Overall I'm very happy with the results of my Dynojet, being mobile I've been able to check results against other DJ dynos round the country quite easily including Dynojet UKs own machines at their HQ near Preston. When it comes down to it Dynojet is a name recognised everywhere by everyone, and carries much more weight than other makes in the industry, which is important at the shows and other events I attend.
This and the repeatability of results is why Dynojet is used by the majority of tuning companies and as such is a name that is trusted by those having their bikes modded.
I'm not slagging off anyone with another make of dyno, but please be aware that if you have a print out from a Dynojet and then run on a Dynapro/Fuchs etc you will get very different results in power output. This will always be the case until the various dyno manufacturers agree upon and adopt a standard, even the various standardising bodies correction factors are different SAE/DIN/EEC/STD etc will all be slightly different even on the same dyno producing a variation of around a 3bhp average on the same run depending on which standardising bodies equations are used.
For that reason it is advisable to stick with a dyno you are happy with whatever make and make sure the operator uses the same correction factor for all of your dyno runs( he should do that anyway, although I've seen examples of the baseline run being done with one correction factor to read low and the final run being done with another to make it look like the gains were greater than they actually were) that way you will be certain of the accuracy and authenticity of the results when it shows that your expensive titanium race system shows less power than your cheapo endcan that it replaces, which has been known to happen when comparing runs from different makes of dyno.
When the bike was tested back to back on the same dyno with both exhausts it showed the truth that there was a significant gain with the full system over the endcan, but comparing the run on one make of dyno with the endcan fitted, and a second run on another make of dyno with a full system fitted it first appeared that the system gave worse results than the endcan gave.
I'll be posting a list of dates and events that I will be attending with the dyno this year in a month or so when the weather is improving, if I'm at an event you attend come and introduce yourselves.

[steve-d]

Can I ask, If I were to have a dyno run, if you were to drag the back brake, would it affect the bhp reading so that it would read 33bhp if done correctly.
Heard rumours of it but not sure if its true.

[jam]

No it wouldn't, I get asked this all the time, it would however wear your pads out and more than likely warp your disc.
I'm afraid there's no real way around it other than have the restrictor kit fitted and certified, then it's upto you whether you remove it or not. A dyno sheet would only prove that the bike was producing 33bhp on that particular occasion, although in reality most traffic cops will accept one as proof of either restriction or low power output. However if you were pulled for doing silly speeds then they would be within their rights to demand an independent test to see if the resrictor had been removed or not.
I did a load of testing for Avon and Somerset traffic police in 2008, my Dynojet dyno is certified for the courts and as such dyno print outs can be used in evidence in court. If you were to present a 'doctored' dyno printout to falsely claim your bike was restricted and it was found out, you would open yourself to a further charge of fraud and or attempting to pervert the course of justice, which is a far more serious offence and usually results in a prison sentence on top of the no insurance and using a vehicle other than in accordance with your licence.

[layne]

Jam, thanks for the above posts.

Can I ask how much difference / variation does the height above see level make. As I realise this can alter the figures, but not by how much.

Also if re-runs are done on the same machine in a different location and therefore height, does it matter too much or can you correct this. As you have dyno’ed my track bike before at Smeatharpes.

[jam]

Altitude will make a difference in some cases, but generally in the UK the altitude variations aren't large enough to be a problem, the Dyno electronics has a module that measures what the atmospheric conditions are, and corrects for variations in pressure/density etc.
Whenever I'm out at an event I check the altitude and enter the info into the dyno software when I set up the run, the dyno then uses this all this info to calculate the A/F ratio, so if your bike is running rich it will show by how much. There are some variations of dynojet kit specifically designed for higher altitudes which have slightly smaller main jets to compensate for the reduced air density, generally this is only needed for areas above 5000 feet. Even if I put in an incorrect altitude of 6000 feet the atmospheric module would be measuring the air pressure/density etc during the run and using this information to calculate the readings and the A/F reading would be the correct one for the conditions, if the bike was running was correctly fueling at sea level and I keyed in 6000 feet it would not change the readings because the atmospheric measurement would remain the same even though I'd entered the incorrect altitude. The only way to alter the results is by using the different standardising bodies correction factors as I said earlier, that is why if your previous runs have been done using SAE correction all subsequent runs should be done using SAE rather than EEC or DIN, the variation between the highest and lowest is only around 3 to 4 bhp on the same run using different correction factors, so it's not possible to make the bike appear significantly more powerful than it really.
People talk about stingy dynos or downhill dynos when they've had their bikes run on two different ones and gained two different results, this is usually down to the use of different correction factors, and that there will be a slight variation in runs of the same bike on different days even on the same dyno let alone a different one.
An example is my own bike which I set up last winter and was fueling correctly, when I was bored and did a second run at the height of summer the bike ran slightly rich and lost a couple of horsepower, this is because the air was a lot more dense during the winter when I set the bike up compared to the middle of summer when the air was rather warmer and therefore less dense. It is important that if you only use your bike during the summer months as many people do these days to have it set up in the summer rather than in the winter for precisely this reason. I use my bike all year round and have two different set ups for winter and for summer to get the best out of it all year round.
Which was your bike I ran at Smeatharpe? I haven't heard if Lee is going to run any further events there this year, I know he was having problems with the council due to people complaining about noise/behaviour etc. The NSA is still running its' couple of events there, but I don't know about Lees' thing.

[layne]

This tatty YZF750



was running slightly lean at the time in warm weather. You recommended some changes but will need dyno time to set-up properly and may change to performance filter.

[deej]

interesting post jam.

today i have seen kenny and spoke to him about a swb dyno day there one weekend when the sun is shining.

he normally charges £40 a run but if we can arrnage for between 6-10 bikes down there for definite he'll do each dyno run for £25,obviously the more the better

[jam]

I remember the bike now, the paint scheme sticks out in my mind. When you get round to sorting it give me a shout if you need any advice, if you're going to have a dyno set up done then a free flowing filter would make sense, and then have it set up to suit both the filter and the exhaust system. I get a lot of people having bikes set up and then brought back because they've changed to a decent filter or a full system a couple of weeks after it's been done, so I always advise people to get the filter/pipe they want before I set it up not afterwards, unless they've got time and money to burn