ZX10R steering lock stuck on

[VirtualMark]

Hi, I'd appreciate any ideas on this one. I was selling my ZX10R, it was working fine. I put the key in the ignition to start it, all was fine. I went in to get some paperwork, they asked to take it up the road.

I put the key in to start it, but it just spun in the lock. The lights were on but the bike is still immobilized. I messed around and apologised saying this has never happened before(it hasn't!), but couldn't get it to work.

I'm now stuck. The steering lock is on so moving it will be tough. It won't start as the lock won't turn the ignition on, plus the bike is immobilized. And I know if I take it to a garage I'm in for a big bill as they're saying I'll need a new ECU and have to get it coded.

I'm open to ideas... really gutted about this as it was running perfectly.

[Jug]

And I know if I take it to a garage I'm in for a big bill as they're saying I'll need a new ECU and have to get it coded.

Have they actually said that?
I've never heard of a new ECU being needed for what is essentially a broken lock barrel.
Just a new key & lock kit and then have the new keys coded into your ECU.

[VirtualMark]

Hi, no they haven't said it'll be a big bill, just that it might be. Spoke to a few garages so far, they're all quite vague and say the bike will need to be there in front of them to tell.

Problem is that I don't want to commit to a garage yet... trying to find out more about the issue. So I don't want to drop it off and they have my bike and then tell me that it'll cost a fortune, I want someone who knows the issue to let me know exactly what it'll cost.

I've tried taking the barrel off myself, but it has anti tamper bolts on it. It's turning into a bit of a nightmare so far...

[billinom8s]

What year?

[MikeZ]

Tamperproof bolts are replaceable. From your description it's difficult to tell the exact problem. Is it the ignition imobiliser is still active? If the key is close enough and the key is in the on position then the ignition immobiliser shouldn't be on. But is it just that barrel has snapped so the electrical contacts in the bottom (where the wires come out) are not aligned.

[VirtualMark]

What year?

2009

[VirtualMark]

Tamperproof bolts are replaceable. From your description it's difficult to tell the exact problem. Is it the ignition imobiliser is still active? If the key is close enough and the key is in the on position then the ignition immobiliser shouldn't be on. But is it just that barrel has snapped so the electrical contacts in the bottom (where the wires come out) are not aligned.

I think the immobiliser is still active as there was a flashing red light. But that's a good point, the antenna should have picked up the key and disabled the immobiliser?

Without taking the barrel off I don't know if anything has snapped. Is there an easy way to get those bolts off?

[billinom8s]

Take off yoke and drill them.

Take it to your Mate who did your pads, he should be able to sort it.

[Jug]

Or buy the driver bit that fits the security bolts, or maybe that comes in the new lock kit.

[MikeZ]

I'm pretty sure they're snap-off torx bolts, so if you're lucky you might be able to chisel/drive round, but at worst its a small grind/drill off head.
So you just need to see what's broken and replace it.

[billinom8s]

I did mine and just drilled then used an easy out

[Scotty]

I had an issue years ago with a 2005 ZX-10R where a vindictive ex decided to superglue the ignition lock (I shan’t elaborate here but it was one of a number of incidents taken into account by Leicester Magistrates not long afterwards). I removed the top yoke and ground off the security bolt heads and sent the ignition lock to a place that stripped the lock barrel down and fixed it at a cost far lower than a new matched lock set and ECU. If you (the OP) like I’ll try and dig out the details of the company that repaired it for me (in my defence it was fourteen years ago but I’m sure I have the details somewhere)

[Firebeast]

IF the bolts are same as my 9r, so tiny central torq head, you can get them out by using a punch through the centre of the head to split it a bit, Just make sure the punch is almost snug in the recess so it won’t move much and if you take aim and don’t smash the crap out of it, they let go and come out after with an impact screwdriver or even just a well sized screw driver if you don’t own one as the punch normally does the main work .. I used some wood underneath and around it to keep everything from moving. I put it up as a how 2, elsewhere and a couple of other guys managed fine.. if it shears a half away whilst trying , you then just get the half the split and even that does the trick. Just be sure to be gentle with impact screw driver..

[Scotty]

Thinking back, if they’re regular tamper-proof bolts the tools to undo them are easily available - basically torx bits with a central cavity to accommodate the pin. Easier to undo and re-use than destroy and mitigate the damage afterwards...

[MellowYellow]

When I got back on a bike after 35 yrs. without, I bought a Honda CB500S for £750. Put a higher gear on it as I was always looking for '7th.'.

Was nicked and recovered. I bought it back from the insurers and went at the security bolts on the ignition.

It had snap-off bolts, leaving a convex dome. Pain in the back, ass, neck and most other places. Got it out evneshuuuuuuualllly and fitted a new barrel sourced from the bay. Long time on back with new drill bits.