My Castrol Racing Honda 929 fireblade Track bike build - Now Daytona 675 build!

[Dan_RR]

Hey everyone,

Was hoping to try my Honda fireblade 929 track bike out yesterday, not the SWB day but the normal Saturday at Llandow for the first time but unfortunately was cancelled (as we all know due to the Covid situation) took the time instead to start working on the bike. Thought I would start a build thread as hoping to get out on a good few track days when everything is back to normal and can see me keeping it for a good while if it fits the bill as I love my 954 blade on the road!

Trying to improve my video editing skills at the same time but I apologise in advance for some of the sound being a bit quiet and me talking a bit jolted, not used to talking on camera just yet.

Enough rambling from me, here's the first episode, you may want to sit down with a cuppa and some popcorn as its 15mins long

https://youtu.be/tNEc4wS5ok4

Picture for anyone coming to this thread, what it looked like when I bought it:

Fireblades by Daniel Collins, on Flickr

P.S. In most forums if I post a Youtube link like above it shows a preview type box so you can just click play, is that possible in this forum?

Cheers Dan

[billinom8s]

We've been trying to get that to happen for years, pretty sure the template that is being used won't allow it.

Good video though.

[menzies3032]

Hey Dan

Great review of the bike and good to see it in daylight. Thought that camera did a great job and considering you were outside was good sound with little wind noise. Did you use the camera mic or do you have an external one?

Shame that you didnt get the chance to have a go round Lllandow sure we can get you to another track day some time soon. If your looking for a good free video editing software would recommend VSDC (Channel link below)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP1CXh ... 4xZ4DygobA

If you want some extra help for youtube vids would recommend checking out tubebuddy. they have some free (or paid) software and can help with many things they also have there own channel and also have a discord server
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCo33ni ... Z_dohqvylg

Also if you want some free music to use on your vlog vids then check out below as find them quite good
https://incompetech.com/music/

[Dan_RR]

Cheers Si, glad you liked it. That's fair enough, as long as everyone is in the same boat and can bring themselves to click a link, we are all gravy.

Thanks a lot Rob, never know if you make a long video if people will find it boring or whatever so tried to get to the point-ish. It was actually all done just on my phone, tried doing the first bit of the video with my gopro as well but because its a session and doesn't have a screen it can be a bit faffy holding your phone with the gopro app to see what the camera is looking at, just easier to hold the phone on it's own lol. Only the built in phone mic but happy enough with it so thought may as well do the whole video with it, only thing that's nice with the gopro is you can use the wide angle lens but that is more for when on track and stuff, doesn't really matter when you can move the camera around yourself IMO.

Funnily enough I only downloaded the free version of Tubebuddy a couple nights before, good for checking key words etc and editing your thumbnails. Do you use it for your videos?

I used a free editor called Shotcut https://shotcut.org/ seems pretty powerful i'm just getting used to using it, will give the one you mention a look too. Totally forgot to add any music to the montage bits which I wanted to do so that link will be handy, when you search free to use music in Youtube quite a few do come up but like I say, forgot to add it in.

Do need to book a track day soon! Unfortunately as my first drift day of the year has been postponed and still don't have a date I don't want to book something, then knowing my luck it will overlap....

[menzies3032]

Yes use tube buddy and was that impressed I have paid for the pro version so I can use some of the extras.

Worth getting TubeBuddy on your phone as well the app is quite helpful

[Dan_RR]

Vlog number 2, removing the wheels! Please give it a like and subscribe guys. Thanks a lot.

https://youtu.be/ftnZRZVFA5U

[menzies3032]

Nice vid Dan.

[Dan_RR]

Nice vid Dan.

Thanks,

Went a bit overkill with the rear wheel, you can quite often get away without having to slacken the chain adjusters to get the wheel/chain off most bikes as there is enough slack just removing the blocks on each side and pulling the axle through but thought might be useful for someone who's watching so went the whole hog, ha!

[TLS-Moose]

Nice vid Dan.

Thanks,

Went a bit overkill with the rear wheel, you can quite often get away without having to slacken the chain adjusters to get the wheel/chain off most bikes as there is enough slack just removing the blocks on each side and pulling the axle through but thought might be useful for someone who's watching so went the whole hog, ha!

What a kerfuffle! Bike on stand, pull off spring clip, undo nut, wheel now off and in hand. Chain tension remains unaffected, brake remains in place, jobs a good 'un

36985380_10156513302086944_9174176648222736384_o.jpg

[Scotty]

Thanks,

Went a bit overkill with the rear wheel, you can quite often get away without having to slacken the chain adjusters to get the wheel/chain off most bikes as there is enough slack just removing the blocks on each side and pulling the axle through but thought might be useful for someone who's watching so went the whole hog, ha!

Dan, the simple way to remove a conventional (i.e. two-sided swingarm) rear wheel is to leave the chain adjusters alone - don't touch them! Pre-work task is to remove the chain guard if there's one fitted.
1. Undo the spindle nut and, holding the wheel, withdraw the spindle.
2. Move the wheel forwards in the swingarm and unhook the chain and hang it over the end of the swingarm so that it won't snag the sprocket bolts.
3. Withdraw the wheel to the rear of the bike - ideally have a second pair of hands ready to catch the spacers that invariably fall out of the wheel assembly and roll away. Captive spacers make wheel removal so much simpler, and they can be made easily to fit regular Japanese bikes without resorting to changing bearing and spindle sizes. The rear caliper can stay in situ.
4. Wheel re-fitting is simply reversal of the whole procedure.

As you're basing this on your track bike, which will see more frequent wheel removal than a regular road bike it's worth fixing the rear brake caliper in situ. I'd imagine that your Blade doesn't have a torque arm for the rear brake, and caliper rotation is prevented by a clevis (slot) on the caliper bracket engaging with a tab on the inside face of the swingarm. Basically you'll need to drill and tap an M6 hole in the centre of the tab on the swingarm, and get a longitudinal slot machined in the clevis of the bracket (to allow movement for chain adjustment). A suitably shallow-headed bolt will keep everything in place (loctite the threads and don't nip it up so that the bracket remains free to slide). The photo shows the set-up on my old ZX-10R track bike. If need be, print it off and take it to a local Engineering shop and get them to copy it.

Edit: do a dry run on reassembly to ensure that the bolt head used clears the brake disc and the wheel rotates freely

[Dan_RR]

What a kerfuffle! Bike on stand, pull off spring clip, undo nut, wheel now off and in hand. Chain tension remains unaffected, brake remains in place, jobs a good 'un

36985380_10156513302086944_9174176648222736384_o.jpg

Ha ha don't know if I trust a single sided swing arm

Thanks,

Went a bit overkill with the rear wheel, you can quite often get away without having to slacken the chain adjusters to get the wheel/chain off most bikes as there is enough slack just removing the blocks on each side and pulling the axle through but thought might be useful for someone who's watching so went the whole hog, ha!

Dan, the simple way to remove a conventional (i.e. two-sided swingarm) rear wheel is to leave the chain adjusters alone - don't touch them! Pre-work task is to remove the chain guard if there's one fitted.
1. Undo the spindle nut and, holding the wheel, withdraw the spindle.
2. Move the wheel forwards in the swingarm and unhook the chain and hang it over the end of the swingarm so that it won't snag the sprocket bolts.
3. Withdraw the wheel to the rear of the bike - ideally have a second pair of hands ready to catch the spacers that invariably fall out of the wheel assembly and roll away. Captive spacers make wheel removal so much simpler, and they can be made easily to fit regular Japanese bikes without resorting to changing bearing and spindle sizes. The rear caliper can stay in situ.
4. Wheel re-fitting is simply reversal of the whole procedure.

As you're basing this on your track bike, which will see more frequent wheel removal than a regular road bike it's worth fixing the rear brake caliper in situ. I'd imagine that your Blade doesn't have a torque arm for the rear brake, and caliper rotation is prevented by a clevis (slot) on the caliper bracket engaging with a tab on the inside face of the swingarm. Basically you'll need to drill and tap an M6 hole in the centre of the tab on the swingarm, and get a longitudinal slot machined in the clevis of the bracket (to allow movement for chain adjustment). A suitably shallow-headed bolt will keep everything in place (loctite the threads and don't nip it up so that the bracket remains free to slide). The photo shows the set-up on my old ZX-10R track bike. If need be, print it off and take it to a local Engineering shop and get them to copy it.

Edit: do a dry run on reassembly to ensure that the bolt head used clears the brake disc and the wheel rotates freely

Yep I was just showing all possibilities if someone maybe didn't know how the chain adjusters worked or were swapping out a new chain/sprocket. I should have said that in the video really. I mean it will take me a couple mins to re-align the chain so not that fussed plus I know they actually move, if I turned up at a track day, tried to adjust the chain and the adjuster was seized.... Wouldn't be no fun then! I see from watching it back you would think I will do that every time I definitely should have been more clear..... I am still a beginner to making video's.

Ye the caliper idea is good seen a guy who races sv650's do something similar with a lock wire to stop the caliper dropping. Realistically I'm going to change the wheel/tyres maybe a couple times a year it's not quite thundersport race spec just yet lol.

Thanks for the comments and watching along. I will be more clear in the future Hopefully see you guys on a ride out or on track sometime.

[Dan_RR]

So i've made another one, includes a little plug to SWB and Si for letting me borrow his headstock stand

Need to pull my finger out now, been spending more time on the ktm and riding the road bike the last few weeks but I've booked Pembrey 1st of August which i'm looking forward to so need the bike back together and serviced by then

https://youtu.be/VMfx3VBZkhk

[billinom8s]

Nice vid Dan.

Thanks,

Went a bit overkill with the rear wheel, you can quite often get away without having to slacken the chain adjusters to get the wheel/chain off most bikes as there is enough slack just removing the blocks on each side and pulling the axle through but thought might be useful for someone who's watching so went the whole hog, ha!

What a kerfuffle! Bike on stand, pull off spring clip, undo nut, wheel now off and in hand. Chain tension remains unaffected, brake remains in place, jobs a good 'un

36985380_10156513302086944_9174176648222736384_o.jpg

That's after emptying the garage to get at the bike, removing a years worth of dust and cobwebs where it hasn't moved and working out which end is the front and which is the back.

[Dan_RR]

Last video before the track day this weekend, managed to get it pretty much back together.

https://youtu.be/c2UCRjtba2E

Getting excited for Pembrey now!

[menzies3032]

Have fun at Pembrey Dan.