Time for Hibernation

R6 STU · Post by **R6 STU** » Oct 29th, '07, 20:46

Yes i know it's sad, maybe depressing. And I'll probably get slated but when the old salters come out the bike will be going away for the winter!

Does anyone have any tips or hints for what to do!
I'm going to take all the fairing off ad give it a good clean, polish it up but anything mechanical?

It's an 04 R6 (fuel injection) BTW

Cheers

Funky · Post by **Funky** » Oct 29th, '07, 21:14

Depending on where you live, you may choose to store and protect your motorcycle from the elements during the winter months. Proper storage will make spring start-up that much easier.
Instructions

* STEP 1: Warm your engine to operating temperature, then turn it off. Change the oil and restart the engine to circulate the new oil. You do not need to change the filter.

* STEP 2: Fill the gas tank to the top and add a fuel stabilizing additive.

* STEP 3: Turn the fuel petcock to the OFF position and run the engine until it quits.

* STEP 4: Support the bike so that neither tire is touching the ground and let all the air out of the tires. If this is not possible, fill your tires to the proper air pressure and put the bike on its center stand. Rotate the tires periodically so that the same part of the tire is not touching the ground all winter.

* STEP 5: Push the brake pads away from the brake discs.

* STEP 6: Remove the battery and put it on a charger. Store it at a temperature above 32 degrees F and trickle-charge it once a month. If you are able to start and run the bike once a month, you may want to leave the battery in the bike and just disconnect the negative cable end. Run the bike until it is at normal operating temperature. If this is not possible (because it is stored indoors), crank the engine two or three times.

* STEP 7: Wash and wax all the painted and chrome parts.

* STEP 8: Lubricate the chain.

* STEP 9: Store your bike in a dry, well-ventilated garage. Cover it with a cotton cover or blanket rather than a plastic tarp to prevent moisture and condensation from getting trapped under the cover.

Tips & Warnings

* Make a list of everything you've done and attach it to a handgrip. This list works as reference and checklist for getting your bike up to speed in the spring.
* You may need to purchase a new battery in the spring even if you charge it periodically.
* Gasoline is extremely flammable. Storing your bike in areas where open flames, pilot lights, sparks and electric motors are present is dangerous.
* Do not run any gasoline engine indoors as they emit odorless carbon monoxide that can kill you.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5246_store-moto ... inter.html

deej · Post by **deej** » Oct 29th, '07, 22:17

kin hell funky, where did you copy and paste all that from

hope its better advice than your lap of llandow a few months ago

Funky · Post by **Funky** » Oct 29th, '07, 22:50

Haha, no one can do the karting track faster!

Copied it from DC Bikers.

oooh I think I just swore haha

bambam · Post by **bambam** » Oct 30th, '07, 17:46

what's GASOLINE..........r we turning into septic tanks or sumfin

Ricky_t · Post by **Ricky_t** » Oct 30th, '07, 19:57

I didn't bother with half those things. It is not that cold around here.

I disconnected the battery, cleaned it, filled the tank full or petrol, luped the chain, put it on paddock stands.

Is it really neccessary to pull back the brake discs, rotating the wheels and fuel stabalizer?

(I am leaving it for a few months at a time, I plan to ride it in december for a week or so. The reason is that I only ride the bike when i am not in uni.)

SteveR3 · Post by **SteveR3** » Oct 30th, '07, 20:25

I use one of these which is plently large enough to hold the Rocket and keep it sound for 6 months, but still need to following similar lines to Funky's good advice...

http://www.vac-bags.co.uk/bike.htm

Bought the kit 2 years ago and keep re-using it every Winter, optimate the battery, empty the tank, fresh oil and Hoover out the air - works a treat

Tom L · Post by **Tom L** » Oct 30th, '07, 22:48

or do what i did when i left my old bike for 6 months

*park it in the garage
*come back 6 months later, started instantly, drove it to MOT station, it passed
*go ride it

probably the wrong thing to do

Smiler · Post by **Smiler** » Oct 31st, '07, 07:47

Ha ha Like it ^^

Personally I don't hibernate my bike. I'll try to get out as often as work/weather allows, but I do tend to wash mine more over winter and its always garaged.

Of course if ya got summink more exotic.....

tiggerz1 · Post by **tiggerz1** » Oct 31st, '07, 12:05

Jeez fair weather bikers lmao i use mine in all weathers

Smiler · Post by **Smiler** » Oct 31st, '07, 13:27

Can't get work on the back of bike, and don't have a commute!

And, my bike is purely an indulgent plaything, for fun!

Sure, have ridden in all weathers (and good on you for riding all year come hail or snow

) but I wouldn't choose to.

Peoples perception of bike ownership varies hugely - from the extremely low mileage polishers to the 50,000 miles a year only transport types, if you're enjoying it who cares?

jason · Post by **jason** » Oct 31st, '07, 13:38

wow thats a dirty great list of prep work funky...

I use a much shorter version:

Make sure its spotlessly clean -spray anything that can corrode or oxidise with WD40 or ACF50. leave it.

mattr6 · Post by **mattr6** » Oct 31st, '07, 15:50

No gritters out yet up here so will continue to ride! I intend using the bike on some of our finer winter days so won't be laying it up properly. Just making sure its washed after every ride out.

FESTER · Post by **FESTER** » Dec 17th, '07, 21:17

[quote="tiggerz1"]Jeez fair weather bikers lmao i use mine in all weathers[/quote

Hey tigger im with you mate . Use mine in all weathers . Not one of those of those fair weather bikers me , lol . Got ave a layer of ice and four foot snow drifts before i give up , lol . The way i look at it is this .... ride through the crap weather , and you really do appreciate the good weather more . When we get it , that is , lol . Good on you son !!

philh · Post by **philh** » Dec 18th, '07, 12:36

* STEP 1: Warm your engine to operating temperature, then turn it off. Change the oil and restart the engine to circulate the new oil. You do not need to change the filter.

IMHO for the sake of a few quid and an extra five minutes work, always change the filter with new oil. Why subject lovely clean oil to the crud in the filter?